Creating a textile industry from A to Z in Africa
Heather Chaplet, founder of fashion label Xoomba, is a versatile artist. A dancer and ceramist, she grew up in a creative environment. Indeed, her designer parents had developed the famous MacKenzie-Childs brand in the United States. Passionate about African dance and music, Heather traveled between Paris and New York with various artists before settling in Burkina Faso.
In 2009, Heather embarked on a tour of Africa, exploring Senegal, Mali, Benin and Burkina Faso. She was looking for a place where the resources available would enable her to create a textile chain from A to Z. Her discovery of the possibilities for sourcing organic cotton in Burkina Faso, as well as the historical impact of Thomas Sankara, convinced her to set up her initiative in this country. In 2010, she created her first prototypes. Then, in 2011, she officially launched Xoomba, a brand characterized by the use of organic cotton, GOTS-certified non-toxic dyes and collaboration with Bobo-Dioulasso weavers.
Organic cotton made in Africa
Initially, Heather divided her time between the USA and Burkina Faso, spending six months a year in Africa. In 2012, a major challenge arose: the availability of raw materials. Victoria’s Secret had bought all the cotton produced in Burkina Faso. There was nothing left for local production. That’s when Heather realized she had to get organized to ensure the development of a sustainable industry. In 2021, she organized the event “Les rendez-vous du Coton Bio” to celebrate organic cotton and its local transformation. The event brings together representatives from countries such as Ghana, Mali, Tunisia and Burkina Faso. This first edition received a warm welcome and good feedback.
Developing the skills of craftsmen
In 2022, following the RDV du Coton Bio, the “Coalition pour la Transformation du Coton Bio” was founded to federate craftsmen and designers who use organic cotton. The aim is to centralize demand for organic yarn and boost production and marketing. In addition, GIZ, the German Society for International Cooperation, is supporting the initiative to train craftsmen in sewing, weaving and dyeing. GIZ has also invested in computers and software for digital patternmaking in Burkina Faso. In addition, expert Emile Nikiema from VetB-Prod has been asked to train a local team in digital patternmaking. With this funding, Heather creates the website cotonbioafricain.com, a showroom and a catalog for the coalition to promote African organic cotton.
Heather Chaplet has succeeded in creating an ethical and sustainable brand in Burkina Faso. By overcoming challenges and uniting players in the industry, she has positioned the Xoomba fashion brand as an example of successful local transformation. With her passion and dedication, Heather continues to move the African textile industry towards a more sustainable and equitable future.
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