Trends, challenges and growth opportunities for the African fashion industry
In this article, we’ll share some of the findings of the Unesco report on African fashion. The African fashion industry represents an often underestimated wealth, linking traditional know-how and innovation. From cotton plantations to clothing designers, it bears witness to a vast and unique value chain. Beyond its aesthetic appeal, African fashion is a driving force for social inclusion, offering opportunities for women, young people and people from modest backgrounds. It reflects a commitment to sustainability and a consumption model rooted in reuse.
Some figures on African fashion from the Unesco report
- In 2019, the African Union estimated that if the fashion sector were exploited to its full potential by integrating the production of raw materials, fabrics and garments, the gains in prosperity for the continent would be considerable.
- Textiles and materials are the second most important sector after agriculture in developing countries, but their potential remains under-exploited.
- In 2020, the ready-to-wear and footwear market in sub-Saharan Africa is estimated at US$31 million.
- Exports of fabrics, clothing and footwear are estimated at $15.5 billion, while imports total $23.1 billion. The main importing countries are Egypt, Morocco and Tunisia.
- 59% of industry professionals believe that the lack of public and private investment is one of the main challenges facing the sector.
A unique and complex value chain
One of the special features of the fashion industry is its wide and diverse value chain. It begins with cotton and hemp plantations and extends right through to textile design and manufacture. It also includes the recycling of European and American clothing for resale in African street markets, illustrating the resilience of this sector. Unesco’s report on African fashion explores the various specificities of the sector to offer a pertinent overview.
In examining this chain, the team noted that decision-makers only see the visible part of the industry, that of designers and catwalks. Yet it employs millions of people in a variety of trades, from farmers and artisans to designers and entrepreneurs. African fashion also provides jobs for women and young people, giving the unqualified a chance of integration.
Lack of data hinders development
The study highlights the lack of figures on the industry in Africa. Unlike other regions of the world where information on the number of fashion schools, Fashion Weeks and creative events is available, Africa lacks accurate statistics. This hinders appropriate policy support and private investment.
The African fashion industry is more than just an artistic or cultural domain; it is a real economic lever. However, this sector often lacks the financial and institutional support it deserves, despite being an engine of innovation and identity for the continent.
The prejudices and financial obstacles of African designers
African creators, particularly women entrepreneurs and LGBTQIA+, face prejudices affecting their access to financing. These obstacles hinder the growth of this sector, despite its local economic potential. Fashion also influences consumer behavior; in Africa, it could promote sustainable values.
International celebrities like Kim Kardashian wearing recycled clothing could set new trends. The potential of African fashion remains to be exploited to encourage responsible practices.
The positive impact of local practices on sustainable fashion
The reuse and transformation of materials is part of African culture and is reflected in fashion. Before an item becomes waste, it is reused, modified or transformed. African brands adopt these practices, often using artisanal textiles and natural dyes, applying slow fashion long before its global popularity.
Fast fashion from Asia is flooding the African market. Although these affordable products meet consumer expectations, they are holding back the development of local brands. Strengthening national preference and making African products competitive is becoming essential.
Fashion consumption varies according to social class
In Africa, diverse social classes influence clothing choices: some prefer second-hand clothes, while the middle class and affluent customers constitute a promising market. This audience is attracted not only by luxury, but also by products that celebrate African identity.
The African diaspora contributes to the international visibility of local brands. Celebrities like Beyoncé promote African designers, reinforcing their global reputation. These personalities influence trends and make African brands attractive.
African designers also need to master the digital world to reach a global audience. Mastering social networks and online commerce is crucial to promoting their brands. Many are training in these tools to structure their businesses and succeed internationally.
Africa’s fashion industry is crucial to the continent’s economic, social and environmental development. Supporting this industry is not only relevant to meeting the growing demand for ethical products, but essential to making African fashion a major force for change. By guaranteeing access to financing and training for designers and promoting Made in Africa, this industry can become a pillar of social and economic transformation for Africa.
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