Exhibition explores the history and cultural impact of an iconic fabric
The Musée de l’Homme is devoting an unprecedented exhibition to wax, the vibrantly patterned fabric that has become a symbol of Africa. From February 5 to September 2025, immerse yourself in the fascinating history of this textile, from its Indonesian origins to its influence on contemporary fashion and art.
Deciphering wax
As part of its “Migrations” season, the Musée de l’Homme is presenting a captivating exhibition dedicated to wax. This fabric, instantly recognizable thanks to its bright colors and distinctive patterns, is the focus of attention. The exhibition, which runs from February 5 to September 2025, is divided into two complementary sections. The first explores the history of wax, tracing its path over more than 120 years, between Asia, Europe and Africa. The second highlights its current influence on the fashion, design and contemporary art scenes.
The history of wax
The exhibition, located in the Balcon des Sciences (2nd floor), offers an in-depth look at the singular history of wax. Initially, wax was a technical and iconographic adaptation of Indonesian batik. This wax-dyeing technique was later industrialized by Europeans. It was in West Africa that wax met with resounding success, before spreading throughout the continent.
As a result, wax has become a major player in the global textile trade. The exhibition retraces the key stages in this history. In particular, it looks at wax production in the 19th century, the influence of the Dutch manufacturer Vlisco, the success of its Ivorian subsidiary Uniwax, and the crucial role of the “Nana Benz”, the Togolese women traders who played a decisive role in the spread of the fabric.
The exhibition also highlights the importance of wax motifs. These motifs, whose iconographic foundations were established in the early 20th century, draw their inspiration from a variety of sources. They include elements of nature and everyday life, as well as references to current political and social events. As a result, wax’s iconographic repertoire represents a genuine cultural heritage that is constantly evolving.
When art takes hold of wax
The Foyer Germaine Tillion (1st floor) houses the contemporary part of the exhibition. Here, artworks and fashion creations explore the many facets of wax. While wax is often perceived as a typically African fabric, some artists nuance this vision. They emphasize the link between wax and a sometimes stereotyped imaginary of Africa. They also point to the fact that wax has, to some extent, eclipsed the continent’s traditional fabrics.
However, wax has also become a powerful tool for asserting identity, particularly for Afro-descendant artists in the diaspora. The exhibition features creations by renowned designers such as Lamine Badian Kouyaté (Xuly Bët), Alexis Temomanin and Adina Ntankeu. There are also works by renowned photographers such as Malick Sidibé, Seydou Keïta, Thandiwe Muriu and Omar Victor Diop. Works by artists such as Romuald Hazoumé, Lamine M and Mosengo Shila complete the panorama. The exhibition is curated by a team of experts: Soloba Diakité, Marie Merlin, Cindy Olohou and Manuel Valentin.
At a time when wax is experiencing an unprecedented craze, this exhibition at the Musée de l’Homme offers a unique opportunity to discover its history and cultural impact. It invites the public to explore the multiple meanings of this emblematic fabric, between heritage, appropriation and contemporary reinterpretation.
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